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Table of Contents
Introduction
All-Grain Brewing Terms
Differences Between All-Grain and Extract Brewing
Additional Equipment
Nuts & Bolts of Your First Single-Infusion Mash
Conclusion
American IPA Recipe
Introduction
This guide assumes that you, the brewer,
already have a good deal of experience in extract brewing. We have prepared
the following information with our focus on the differences between
making extract and all-grain beers. By the end of this, you should have
enough information and confidence to do your first single-infusion mash.
We hope that you will find it useful in making the transition from extract
to all-grain as painless as possible.
All-Grain Brewing Terms
Base Grain: Any malt that is used
primarily as a source of fermentable sugar and that must be mashed to
extract the sugar. For example, pale malt, wheat malt and Munich malt
are all base grains.
Batch Size: The amount of wort
in the brew kettle after it has been cooled from the boil but before
it goes into the fermenter.
Cold Break: Proteins and other
material which coagulates and become solid as the result of cooling
wort.
Conversion: The process of converting
starch to sugar. Full conversion is achieved when all available starch
is converted to sugar.
Efficiency: The term, usually
expressed as a percent, used to describe the amount of sugar extracted
from the grain in a brew system relative to the maximum amount that
can be extracted. In extract brewing, efficiency is 100% because all
of the sugar in the malt extract goes directly into the kettle. In all-grain,
brewing, efficiency is always less than 100% because brewers cannot
separate all of the sugar from the grain during sparging. It is useful
in determining the amount of grain a brewer needs to mash to achieve
a desired target gravity.
Grant: A pot or other vessel used
to transfer the first runnings of the mash back to the lauter-tun during
the vorlauf.
Grain Bed:
The grain in the lauter-tun.
Grist:
The total amount of grain to be mashed.
Hot Break: Proteins and other
material which coagulate and become solid as the result of boiling wort.
Iodine Test:
A test used by brewers to determine whether full conversion has been
achieved. A small amount of wort is removed from the mash-tun and mixed
with a drop of tincture of iodine. If the iodine remains red, conversion
is complete. If the mixture turns blue, more time is needed.
Infusion Mash: A mash in which
the temperature is controlled by using or adding hot (or cold) water
to the mash. A single-infusion mash is one in which only one addition
of water is used.
Lauter: The process of separating
the sweet wort from the spent grain. This term is virtually synonymous
with 'Sparge.'
Lauter-Tun: A vessel, usually
a large pot, picnic cooler or bucket with a false bottom or other equipment
used to separate sweet wort from spent grains. Many brewers use the
same vessel as a combination mash-tun/lauter-tun.
Mash: The process of mixing water
and crushed grain at controlled temperatures to convert the starch in
the grain to fermentable sugar. The term "mash" is also used as
a noun to refer to the mixture of water and grain.
Mash-In: The process of mixing
the grain and water together in the mash-tun.
Mash-Out:
The process of raising the temperature of the mash to 165F. The mash-out
stops enzyme activity and raises the temperature of the mash to a good
level for sparging.
Mash-Tun: A vessel, usually a
large pot or picnic cooler, used to mash grains.
Saccharification Rest: The process
of allowing the mash to stay at a controlled temperature (usually 145-158F)
until all available starches are converted to sugar (usually 30-120
min.)
Sparge: The process of rinsing
spent grains with hot water (liquor, in brewing terms) to extract fermentable
sugar from the spent grains.
Specialty Grain: Grains that are
used primarily for flavor, aroma, body or color. Generally, these malts
do not require mashing for their purposes. The most common specialty
grain is crystal malt. The name 'crystal' comes from the malting and
kilning processes which crystallize the sugars in the grain. Therefore,
the starch in the grain has already been converted to sugar. Other specialty
grains include Special-B, chocolate malt and roasted barley.
Strike Temperature: This is the
temperature of the mash water when it is first mixed with the grain.
Stuck Mash:
The unfortunate condition which occurs when water will not flow through
the grain bed from the lauter-tun to the kettle. The lauter-tun becomes
clogged or 'stuck.'
Target Gravity: The Original Gravity
of the final product.
Trub: All of the solid stuff left
in the brew kettle after the boil. It consists of hot break, cold break,
spent hops, etc.
Vorlauf: The process of recirculating
the first runnings of the mash back into the lauter-tun until the first
runnings are clear.
Wort Chiller: A piece of equipment
used to rapidly cool the wort after the boil.
Differences Between All-Grain
and Extract Brewing
Mashing:
The main difference between all-grain and extract brewing is that you
mash your own grain in all-grain brewing instead of having a maltster
do it for you.
Control:
In extract brewing, you have limited control over the final product.
Usually, this control is exercised by the use of specialty grains to
develop desired malt characteristics. However, the control is not absolute.
For example, it is very difficult to brew very light beers such as Belgian
White with extract because of the dark color of even the lightest extracts.
Similarly, body, mouth feel and what is often described at 'maltiness'
are difficult, if not impossible to control with extract beers.
In all-grain brewing, most mashing is
done between 145F and 158F. This wide temperature range allows the brewer
to control body and alcohol level. There is an inverse relationship
between these variables. A beer mashed at a low temperature will tend
to have a higher alcohol content and a lighter body. A beer mashed at
a high temperature will tend to have a lower alcohol content and heavier
body. Also, the time for full conversion is inversely proportional to
the temperature. Approximate times required for full conversion at various
temperatures are: 15-25 min. @ 158F; 45-90 min. @ 150F; and 90-120 min
@ 145F. For example, a pilsner beer is relatively light in body. A mash
at about 148F would yield the correct body. Plan on this mash taking
almost two hours. As a side note, most home brewers mash for at least
45 minutes regardless of the temperature. This does not harm the beer.
We always mash for at least an hour.
Cost: All-grain brewing is generally
much cheaper per batch than extract brewing. This is especially true
if you buy your base grain in bulk. A 50-pound bag of pale malt is around
$46.00-55.00. Even at modest efficiency, this amount of malt is equivalent
to more than thirty pounds of malt extract which would cost about $100.00.
However, the capital investment in all-grain brewing is larger than
that in extract brewing.
Time:
Obviously, all-grain brewing takes longer than extract brewing. This
is either good or bad depending on your point of view. Budget 6-8 hours
on your brew day for all-grain brewing.
Scale: Many all-grain brewers
tend to brew in larger batches than extract brewers. This is because
it does not take much longer to brew ten gallons of all-grain beer than
five gallons. With the increased time commitment, many all-grain brewers
prefer to (or must) brew more beer less often. It is also because more
people are coming around mooching your home brew! However, that increase
in scale often means an increase in size of equipment. Whenever selecting
equipment, it is usually better to go too big than too small.
Quality: Most brewers now agree
that good beer may be made from extract. However, those brewers would
also agree that, all other things being equal, all-grain yields the
best beer.
Additional Equipment
Mash-Tun/Lauter-Tun:
As mentioned above, most brewers use either a large pot, picnic cooler
or bucket as a mash-tun/lauter-tun. Most lauter-tuns are fitted with
either a false bottom or copper tubing with holes or slots in it. The
false bottom or tubing acts as a strainer to separate the sweet wort
from the spent grains. Each type has its advantages and disadvantages.
Pots have the advantage of being able to accept direct heat. If the
temperature of a mash is too low, the pot can be placed directly on
a burner. However, pots do not hold heat very well. Conversely, picnic
coolers hold heat very well but the only way to add heat is to add hot
water.
Generally, false bottom lauter-tuns require
a separate mash-tun and lauter-tun (which could be an additional expense).
This means that the hot mash must be transferred from the mash-tun to
the lauter-tun. Many brewers use their brew kettle as a mash-tun, transfer
the mash to the lauter-tun, then sparge back into the kettle for the
boil. Additionally, many false bottom systems create a large amount
of "dead space". Dead space is the space between the false bottom
and the actual bottom of the lauter-tun. It is often impossible to get
the sweet wort from the dead space into the kettle. False bottom type
lauter-tuns also suffer from the inability to accept direct heat. With
a false bottom in place, there is no way to stir the liquid at the bottom
of the vessel. Therefore, if heat is added directly, scalding is a virtual
certainty.
Maryland Homebrew carries the Bazooka
tubes and Kewler kitz for making a cooler into a mash tun. The
bazooka tubes can also work with a pot if you get the weld b gone fitting
instead of the Kewler kitz. Of course we are not limited to those
special ordering is available for the stainless and plastic false bottoms.
Digital Thermometer: For all-grain
brewing temperature is very important. You may want to distinguish temperatures
of one or two degrees very quickly.
Heat Source: Full-wort boils require
a lot of heat. Also, you may want to heat more than one thing at a time.
It's a good idea to look into a new burner.
Wort Chiller: If you don't already
have one of these, you will need to get one. It simply takes too long
for wort to cool by itself or by immersing the brew kettle in water.
Most brewers use an immersion chiller. An immersion chiller is made
from a coil of 25-50 feet of copper tubing in a coil tight enough to
fit inside the kettle. It is attached to a garden hose or faucet adapter.
The coil is placed in the kettle 5-10 minutes prior to the end of the
boil to sanitize it. After the boil, cold water runs through the chiller
cooling the beer. Another type of chiller is a counter-flow chiller.
It is made of two coils of different diameters. The small coil is inside
the large one. Many home brewers use a copper coil inside a garden hose
of the same length. During cooling, the hot wort runs through the copper
coil to the fermenter. Meanwhile, cold water runs the opposite direction
through the garden hose. Counter-flow chillers are very efficient. However,
many brewers avoid them because the inside of the copper coil must be
sanitized.
Grain Mill:
If you are going to buy grain in bulk, a grain mill is a necessity unless
you are going to buy it then crush it back into the bag. Your grain
will stay fresh longer if you crush it on an as need basis. To
crush an entire bag of grain there is a $5 milling fee at Maryland Homebrew.
If you are going to buy ingredients by the batch, your home brew shop
grain mill will probably serve you well enough.
Nuts & Bolts of Your
First Single-Infusion Mash
First, we'd like to say that we are die-hard
ProMash users. ProMash is brewing software which automates every phase
of the brewing process from recipe formulation to conditioning. The
only thing it does not do is drink the beer for you. However, because
it is important to know how to brew without a computer, we will proceed
as if we did not have computer assistance. For anyone interested in
ProMash, it is available on the web at www.promash.com and soon to be
available at Maryland Homebrew. The program is only $25 and all upgrades
are free.
Recipe Formulation
For a first all-grain beer, we recommend
a brown, porter, or stout. These beers are mashed at relatively high
temperatures. This will ensure that you don't have any conversion problems.
Also, the style guidelines for them are fairly broad. Shoot for the
center of the guidelines and you are sure to hit them somewhere.
From extract brewing, you know that you
get about 45 points per pound per gallon (pppg or, more simply, points)
from dry malt extract (DME) and about 35 points for liquid malt extract
(LME). You might not have added any gravity contribution for crystal
malt or other specialty grain. In all-grain brewing, it is more complicated.
The gravity contribution of a specific grain depends on it's maximum
potential multiplied by efficiency (expressed as a decimal). For example,
many pale malts have a maximum potential of 35 points. This figure is
also a good rule-of-thumb for unknown grains. However, this assumes
the impossible efficiency of 100%. For a first brew, you can expect
efficiency in the 60-80% range. Therefore, we recommend using 70% for
your initial calculations.
For a pale malt at 35 points and an efficiency
of 70%, the gravity you can expect is: 35 x 0.70 = 24.5 points. Rounded
up, you can assume about 25 points per pound for your first beer. This
means that one pound of grain mashed to yield gallon of wort will yield
an OG of 1.025. Of course, you want to make five gallons. Also, your
OG is not going to be 1.025. You may want to make a brown ale with a
target OG of 1.050. For the math, use only the last two digits of the
OG and points. The equation for this is:
(Target OG) x (Batch Size)
-------------------------------------- = Pounds of Grain
(Points Per Pound)
OR
50 (pts.) x 5 (gal.)
----------------------------- = 10 Pounds of Grain
25
Now you know that you are going to need
ten pounds of grain for your brown ale. However, you still need to figure
out how to divide this amount between your base grain and specialty
malt. The best way to do this is to use someone else's all-grain recipe
and adjust the amount of pale malt in the grist so that the total grain
bill is ten pounds. Also, if you have your own extract recipe, you can
probably substitute the pale malt for your malt extract and get good
results.
Hops are basically the same for all-grain
and extract so we won't go into them much here. However, if you have
been doing concentrated wort boils and then topping off with cold water,
consider using about ten percent less hops. This is because you get
less hop utilization from a concentrated boil.
With regard to color, you probably won't
have too much trouble getting a brown ale right. However, color for
other beers is often determined by your own experience, judgment and
trial and error (and those of others).
Grinding Grain
Maryland Homebrew has a grain mill that
can be used. For almost all brews, the mill settings there are fine
for all-grain brewing. The general rule is that the grain should be
cracked, not crushed, and most of the husk should be intact. If the
grain is ground too finely, it begins to look pulverized and dusty.
This can lead to stuck mashes and harsh flavors associated with the
extraction of tannins from the crushed husks. If it is too coarse, some
of the fermentable material will not be converted. Assuming you are
not going to buy a grain mill right away, keep an eye on the consistency
of the grain ground at the home brew shop and match that consistency
when you buy a mill. Then, you can adjust as necessary.
Strike Temperature
In your first single-infusion mash, you
will mix hot water with cool grain in hopes of hitting your target mash
temperature. As we said above, you can mash a brown ale at a high temperature.
Mashing at 155F will give you a quick conversion. It will also give
you a little buffer zone before your mash gets too hot. The question
now is how to calculate strike temperature. In other words, how hot
do you have to get the mash water so that an equilibrium temperature
of 155F is reached? Many home brewers use a water/grain ratio of one
quart of water per pound of grain. Using the above recipe as a guide,
you are going to use ten quarts of water for ten pounds of grain. The
very general rule is that the addition of the grain to the mash water
will cause a 17F drop in the water temperature. Therefore, you just
need to add 17F to 155f to get a strike temperature of 172F.
For your first couple of mashes, keep
a quart or two of boiling water on hand at mash-in in case your mash
temperature is too low. Add water as needed to raise or lower the temperature.
Also, once you have hit your strike temperature, it is a good idea to
hold the water there for a few minutes to make sure all of the water
is at the correct temperature.
Mash-In
Once you have achieved strike temperature,
you are ready to mash-in. We, like most home brewers start with the
mash water in the mash-tun then add the grain to the water. Add the
grain slowly stirring constantly to avoid clumps. This is especially
important at the beginning. As you add more malt, the thickness of the
mash will help to break up any clumps. Once the grains are fully mixed
and uniform, take a temperature reading. A couple of degrees high or
low are fine. If you are way too low or too high, add cold or boiling
water to adjust the temperature. Then, set your timer for the desired
mash time. In our example, one hour should be sufficient. Also, if you
are mashing in a steel pot, you may want to wrap it in a towel to conserve
heat.
The Mash
It is best to disturb the mash as little
as possible. We usually wait at least thirty minutes before checking
it. After that time, you may want to stir the mash (it will be warmest
at the center) and take a temperature reading. You can adjust the temperature,
if necessary. This is also a good time to get your sparge water started.
Once you are nearing the end of the mash, do an iodine test. Remember
that this test is not infallible. In fact, if you are using wheat malt,
the iodine test may never show complete conversion. Also, periodically
taste the mash water. As the mash progresses, the liquid will become
noticeably sweeter as the starch is converted to sugar.
Mash-Out
At mash-out, boiling water is added to
the mash to raise the temperature to 165F. The amount of water needed
depends on the amount of mash water used and its temperature. The general
rule is that a 1:1 mash at 155F will require an additional 1/4 of the
original mash water volume. In our example, we used 10 quarts of mash
water so we will need an additional 2.5 quarts of boiling water to mash-out.
In simpler terms, if you used 2.5 gallons to mash, use 2.5 quarts to
mash out. Use more or less water according to your mash temperature.
The Vorlauf
After the mash-out, you are ready for
the vorlauf. First, you need to carefully transfer your mash from the
mash-tun to the lauter-tun if you are using separate vessels. Then,
attach a heat resistant hose (keg line is ideal for this) to the valve
on the lauter-tun and run the hose into a saucepan or Pyrex cup (a pot
of a quart or two is sufficient). Hopefully, liquid will flow from the
lauter-tun into the grant (the brewing term for the pot you are using).
However, you will see lots of grain husks and other large particles.
Because you want the liquid but do not want the other stuff, you will
need to recirculate it back to the lauter-tun.
When the grant is almost full, quickly
move the hose from the full pot to an empty pot (without closing the
valve) and return the wort to the lauter-tun. Repeat this process several
times (about four or so). As you do, larger particles will cover the
holes or slots in your system and act as a strainer. Soon, the liquid
will be free of large particles although it will be cloudy. Let the
wort recirculate until it is fairly clear. When you are finished, let
the hose drain into the kettle. Now you are ready to sparge.
Sparging
Sparging is the process of running hot
water through the grain bed to extract sugars. The sweet wort exits
the lauter-tun through a valve and passes through a hose into the kettle.
A hose is used to prevent hot-side aeration. Before you brew, you will
need to decide how to address the problems associated with sparging
in a gravity feed system. Assuming that you are using gravity to move
your wort, your kettle must be lower than your lauter-tun. If you are
going to use your stove top to brew you will either need to lift the
lauter-tun above stove level or lift the kettle to the stove after sparging.
The advantage of sparging directly into a kettle on the stove top is
that you can begin heating the wort as soon as it reaches the kettle.
However, lifting a forty pound lauter-tun at 165F two feet above the
stove is no thrill ride. Ah, the joys of brewing.
For a long time, the conventional wisdom
has been to use sparge water at 165F-170F, erring on the low side. However,
more recently, we have read of brewers sparging with water in the 180F
range. At any rate, we still recommend the 165F-170F degree range. The
question now is how much sparge water to use. We recommend sparging
with an amount of water equal to about half of your batch size. For
a five gallon batch, this is 2.5 gallons of water. If you under-sparge
a batch, you will get low efficiency. However, if you over-sparge, you
will extract husk tannins and end up with an astringent and very unpleasant
beer. Also, remember that the amount of sparge water you can use is
limited by the size of your kettle and may be affected by the OG of
the beer you are brewing. To calculate the amount of water you can expect
in the kettle after sparging, add all the water you used in the mash.
Then, subtract 0.5 quarts per pound of grain you used. Then add your
sparge water for the total volume to kettle.
In our example, we used 10 quarts of
water to mash and 2.5 quarts for mash-out for a total of 12.5 quarts.
The grain will absorb about 5 quarts of water, leaving us with 7.5 quarts
which is a little less that two gallons. If we sparge with 2.5 gallons
of water in our example, we can expect about 4.5 gallons initial volume
to kettle.
When sparging, be careful when pouring
sparge water into the lauter-tun. Maryland Homebrew sells a sparge arm
that helps to sprinkle the water so that the grain bed does not get
disturbed. You do not want to stir or disrupt the grain so having
the water flow gently is best. Try to keep the entire grain bed under
water until you have used all of the sparge water.
The speed of the sparge is a matter of
personal taste and can be controlled by adjusting the flow through the
exit valve. Many brewers believe that a rapid sparge creates channels
in the grain bed which deliver the sparge water through the grain bed
without any rinsing of sugars. Others believe that a slow sparge causes
the extraction of husk tannins which contribute to astringency. We believe
that a thirty minute sparge is sufficient. Finally, some brewers advocate
taking periodic hydrometer readings and stopping the sparge when the
runnings have a gravity of less than 1.010. The last method requires
repeated starting and stopping of the flow to the kettle. This releases
the suction on the grain bed and can lead to husks in the boil kettle.
Once you have used all the sparge water
and the water drains below the top of the grain bed, look for air bubbles
in the exit hose. This means that the system is sucking in air and sparging
is near the end. If you are so inclined, you can try to compress the
grain bed to squeeze out every drop of wort. We don't do this because
of the risk of extracting husk tannins. At this point, you should be
heating the wort in the kettle. Now you can adjust the batch volume
for gravity if you wish.
Adjusting Gravity
After sparging, you will have a good
deal of wort in your kettle. If you wish, you can adjust the volume
of wort to hit your target gravity. In our example, you are making a
brown ale with an OG of 1.050. If you are not concerned about your gravity,
skip down to the Boil section below. Otherwise, read on. Hopefully,
you have a dipstick or other way to measure the amount of wort in your
kettle. Make a note of your volume and take a gravity reading. We take
a sample from the kettle with a saucepan and swirl it around in the
sink with some cold water until it has cooled off a little so we don't
crack our hydrometer. We take the gravity with a hydrometer and take
the temperature with our digital thermometer. If you do not have a hydrometer
correction chart, a good rule-of-thumb is that gravity needs to adjusted
0.001 for every 7degrees F the temperature is from 60F. For warm liquid,
you will be adding 0.001 for every 7degreesF above 60F. Another useful
rule is that for normal gravity beers, the addition of one quart of
water to a five gallon batch of beer will lower the OG of the wort by
0.002. Finally, remember that most home brew systems boil off about
one gallon of wort per hour of boil.
In our example, assume that your post-sparge
volume is 4.5 gallons, that your hydrometer reading is 1.049 and that
your temperature is 100F. Using the hydrometer correction formula, you
need to add (100-60) or 40 = approx. 6. You need to add 0.006 to your
gravity reading for an actual reading of 1.049 + 0.006 = 1.055 OG. At
this point, you will need to decide how you want to adjust volume for
gravity. From the above paragraph, you know that if you add two quarts
of water, you will lower the gravity of the beer by 0.004 and that you
will have five gallons of beer at 1.051 OG. This means, that your efficiency
was a little better than expected. If you want, you could add another
pint of water and get a little more beer at the target gravity of 1.050.
If you are going to increase your batch size, remember to adjust you
hop schedule for the increased volume. Finally, top-off with an extra
gallon of water to compensate for the boil.
The Boil
The main difference between an all-grain
and extract boil is that the amount of trub in an all-grain boil is
much greater. Most maltsters filter the wort before making extract out
of it. Therefore, there is little solid material other than spent hops
in an extract boil. However, there will be a large amount of both hot-break
and cold-break in an all-grain batch of beer. Once the boil begins,
hydrate your Irish moss if you use it (one teaspoon per five gallons).
Add it to the boil for the final thirty minutes. With ten minutes left
in the boil, put the wort chiller in the kettle to sanitize it. We usually
take a gravity reading during the final minute of the boil to minimize
the possibility of contamination. Also, we leave a spoon in the kettle
throughout the boil and during cooling. This way, the spoon is sanitized
and may be used to circulate the wort during cooling and to whirlpool
the wort.
Chilling the Wort
When the boil is complete, cut the flame
and begin the flow of water through the wort chiller. Remember that
the first water out of the chiller will be close to boiling so be careful
that the effluent hose is secure. If you are taking periodic temperature
readings with a thermometer, it's a good idea to sanitize it in iodophor
before using it. Also, once the beer has cooled a good deal, you can
use one of the temperature strips used for fermenters to approximate
the temperature. During cooling, stir the wort every few minutes to
keep it moving over the chiller. Once the wort is cool, you are ready
to whirlpool.
Whirlpool & Racking
Using a sanitized spoon, stir the wort
in a clockwise direction until you have a nice whirlpool. After about
five minutes, stop whirlpooling and let the trub settle. The whirlpool
action will force the solid material in the kettle to settle at the
bottom center of the kettle forming the trub cone. Let the wort settle
for 20-30 minutes (don't cover the kettle) and you are ready to move
the wort to the fermenter and pitch yeast. If your kettle does not have
a valve, be careful not to disturb the trub cone when racking. Once
you get to the trub cone, you will see that it is made of two layers.
The top layer is very light in color and thin. The bottom layer is darker
and thicker. It is made up mostly of spent hops and other gunk.
Some brewers believe that allowing part
of the top layer of trub into the fermenter is beneficial to your beer.
Others believe that this material does not help but will also not hurt
your beer. However, always try to leave the bottom layer of trub in
the kettle. Once you have moved the beer to the fermenter and pitched
yeast, proceed with fermentation as usual.
Conclusion
There is an old brewer's axiom: "Brewing
is easy . . . until something goes wrong." We hope that this document
has helped you to make sure that things go right and prepared you for
when things go wrong. Thank you very much. Please e-mail us if you have
any questions or comments about this document.
American IPA Recipe
Style: India Pale Ale (BJCP 7)
Ingredients for 5 gallons:
- 12.5 lb.-- Pale Ale Malt
- 0.5 lb.-- Crystal 80 Malt
- 1.00 oz. -- Chinook Hop Pellets
(Bittering) 11.9%
- 1.50 oz. -- Cascade Hop Pellets
(Flavor) 5.3%
- 0.5 oz. -- Centennial Hop
Pellets (Dry) 9.0%
- 0.5 oz. -- Cascade Hop Pellets
(Dry) 5.3%
- 1.00 tsp. -- Irish moss
- Starter -- White Labs California
Ale Yeast WLP001
Procedures: Single Infusion -- Boil Time:
60 min.
- 1. Heat 14.5 qt. Water to
166 and add grain
- 2. Hold at 152 for 90 min.
(or until complete conversion).
- 3. Add 5 qt. boiling water
and mash out at 165
- 4. Sparge with 2.5 gal. Water
at 170F .
- 5. Adjust O.G. to 1.066 (if
desired).
- 6. Add bittering hops to pot
after recirculating initial runoff.
- 7. Hydrate Irish moss at start
of boil.
- 8. Add hydrated Irish Moss
for final 30 min.
- 9. Add flavor hops for final
5 min.
- 10. Cool wort, pitch yeast
and ferment 6 days at 66 .
- 11. Transfer to secondary
and dry hop for 5-7 days at 55 .
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